Low Light Photos were HARD Until I Learned This!

Summary

Struggling with low light photography? You're not alone! Many beginners end up with grainy, mushy images, but it doesn't have to be this way. With Jason Vong's guidance, learn to master handheld and tripod low light photography. Jason explains the pitfalls of high ISO and how to use aperture and shutter speed to your advantage. By balancing these settings, you'll achieve sharp, noise-free low light photos. Whether your camera's auto mode is maxing out ISO or you're aiming for crystal-clear tripod shots, these tips will elevate your photography. Embrace Jason's easy step-by-step approach, and transform your nightscapes today!

Highlights

• Beginners often struggle with grainy, mushy photos in low light. 🌑
• High ISO settings are a common culprit for noisy photos—avoid maxing it out! 🚫
• Using a prime lens opens up more light, allowing for a lower ISO and less noise.
• Tripods make lowlight photography easier by removing the need for high ISO settings.
• Long exposures capture sharp, clean images without moving subjects appearing. 📷

Key Takeaways

• Avoid high ISO settings for clearer images; aim for ISO 6400 on full-frame or 3200 on APS-C cameras.
• Use the widest aperture possible (lowest f-stop) to let in more light and reduce ISO sensitivity. 🌟
• Match shutter speed to your lens’ focal length for crisp, handheld shots. 📸
• For tripod shots, set the ISO to 100, smallest aperture, and adjust shutter speed for perfect exposure.
• Long exposure on a tripod can eliminate motion while capturing stunning cityscapes or night skies. 🌃

Overview

Low light photography can be daunting, especially for beginners. But it's all about getting the right balance between ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. Jason Vong introduces the fix by urging photographers to step away from high ISO settings. Instead, he suggests adjusting other aspects of the camera for sharper, cleaned-up photos.

Jason covers how using a larger aperture (smaller f-number) can significantly help capture more light, thereby allowing you to use a lower ISO setting. This reduces noise and grain in photos. He also emphasizes adjusting your shutter speed according to the focal length, which is a pro tip for sharper handheld photos without much blur.

Utilizing a tripod allows photographers to shift focus onto shutter speed to gather the light needed. This technique is perfect for breathtaking cityscape shots at night. Jason's insights make low light photography approachable and fun, promising enthusiasts a chance to master their cameras effectively.

Chapters

• 00:00 - 00:30: Introduction to Low Light Photography The chapter "Introduction to Low Light Photography" delves into the common challenges faced by beginners in capturing sharp low light photos, often resulting in images that are mushy and grainy. Jason Vong acknowledges this difficulty due to the need for balancing various camera settings. He promises to provide step-by-step guidance on mastering low light photography, both handheld and with a tripod.
• 00:30 - 01:00: Setting Up for Low Light Photography This chapter focuses on preparing for low light photography by using manual mode and understanding high ISO settings. The author sets up a simple practice environment at home to demonstrate techniques. The discussion includes the impact of ISO settings on image noise, using a figurine and a cozy background as subjects. The aim is to create relatable scenarios for practicing low light photography effectively.
• 01:00 - 01:30: Understanding ISO Levels Understanding ISO Levels focuses on the functionality and application of the ISO setting in photography. With the ability to manipulate ISO up to 102,400, photographers must resist using maximum settings due to significant noise in images. ISO helps adjust exposure by controlling light intake; lower ISO values result in darker images while higher values brighten them. Optimal ISO adjustment is crucial for balancing exposure without compromising image quality with excessive noise.
• 01:30 - 02:00: Recommended ISO Levels for Different Cameras The chapter discusses optimal ISO levels for different types of cameras to ensure quality exposure without excessively high ISO settings. It suggests that for full-frame cameras, the ISO should not exceed 6400, while for APS-C cameras, it should not go beyond 3200. However, it also notes that newer camera models may handle higher ISO levels better.
• 02:00 - 02:30: Practical ISO Shooting with Sony A6700 The chapter focuses on practical ISO shooting techniques using the Sony A6700 camera. It highlights the difference in image quality between ISO 3200 and ISO 102,400 settings, noting that ISO 3200, despite some grain and noise, offers a much more salvageable image in post-processing. The chapter concludes with a brief mention of adjusting other camera settings after establishing an ISO ceiling, especially in low-light situations.
• 02:30 - 03:00: Balancing Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO This chapter discusses the importance of balancing aperture, shutter speed, and ISO in photography to achieve optimal results. It highlights three methods to introduce more light, enabling the use of a lower ISO: using the widest open aperture available on lenses, employing a slower shutter speed, or adding light physically. The initial strategy covered is using the widest open aperture, especially when shooting handheld in low-light conditions.
• 03:00 - 03:30: Aperture Settings for Low Light The chapter titled 'Aperture Settings for Low Light' discusses the technique of adjusting aperture settings when shooting in low light conditions, particularly when shooting handheld. It is suggested to set the aperture to the lowest possible number, such as f3.5 on a starter kit lens, to allow more light into the camera and produce brighter images. The chapter also mentions using a tripod initially and later switching to handheld shooting.
• 03:30 - 04:00: Benefits of Prime Lenses In this chapter titled 'Benefits of Prime Lenses', the importance of using prime lenses in photography is highlighted. Prime lenses, such as an f1.8, allow photographers to lower their ISO settings significantly, which can reduce noise in photos. The example given demonstrates how decreasing the aperture from f3.5 to f1.8 enables the ISO to drop from 3,200 to 320, illustrating the role prime lenses play in enhancing image quality by minimizing noise.
• 04:00 - 05:00: Adjusting Shutter Speed in Low Light The chapter discusses the advantages of using an f/1.8 prime lens, particularly its ability to create a blurred background effect by allowing the aperture blades to open wider, hence increasing light intake. This increase in light helps reduce the need to raise the ISO setting. It then shifts focus to the topic of shutter speed, highlighting its importance as the second setting to adjust when capturing handheld photographs in low light conditions.
• 05:00 - 06:30: Finalizing Settings for Handheld Photography In this chapter on finalizing settings for handheld photography, the importance of adjusting shutter speed according to the focal length and sensor type is emphasized. For full-frame cameras, ensure the shutter speed matches the focal length. For APS-C cameras, double the focal length for the shutter speed. The chapter also highlights starting with an appropriate aperture setting, using f3.5 as an example for kit lens users. The overall recommendation is to adjust aperture first when shooting in low light conditions. The example given used a 24 millimeter lens on an APS-C camera to illustrate these settings.
• 06:30 - 08:00: Using a Tripod for Low Light Photography This chapter discusses techniques for using a tripod in low light photography, focusing on camera settings. The chapter emphasizes the importance of adjusting the aperture and shutter speed while carefully managing the ISO to achieve the proper exposure without exceeding the recommended ISO level. It also highlights the trial-and-error nature of low light photography, encouraging calmness and patience to get the best shot even when initial attempts might not be perfect.
• 08:00 - 09:00: Advantages of Long Exposure Photography The chapter focuses on the benefits of long exposure photography, especially in creating sharp images with minimal noise. It contrasts long exposure shots with high ISO shots taken in auto mode, emphasizing better quality and detail in the former despite similar lighting conditions. The chapter also highlights the importance of staying calm and steady while taking photographs to achieve the best results.
• 09:00 - 10:00: Dealing with Noise in High ISO This chapter discusses techniques for dealing with noise when using high ISO settings in photography. The strategies include setting the camera aperture to its widest value, adjusting the shutter speed to either match or double the focal length, and setting the ISO to achieve the correct exposure. It also offers a workaround for exceeding recommended ISO limits by setting it at or near its maximum while slightly reducing shutter speed to maintain image quality without introducing excessive noise.
• 10:00 - 10:30: Conclusion and Sponsor Message The chapter discusses the advantages of cameras with in-body image stabilization, which enable photographers to take sharp images at slower shutter speeds without using a tripod. However, when necessary, tripods can facilitate low-light photography, albeit being cumbersome to carry around. The chapter concludes with an invitation to experience the bustling cityscape of Shinjuku, Tokyo.

Low Light Photos were HARD Until I Learned This! Transcription

• 00:00 - 00:30 Many beginners struggle to get super sharp photos in low light conditions. Most often they'll end up with results that are incredibly mushy and grainy and it's just appalling to look at. Blleh. Get that away from me. And I don't blame them. This is one of the most difficult part of photography because it requires a lot of balancing of different settings of your camera. But don't worry, I Jason Vong will give you step-by-step instructions to master lowlight photography both handheld and utilizing a tripod. So, if you want, get your
• 00:30 - 01:00 camera ready, set it to manual mode, and follow a vong. High ISO explained. So, here I made a little setup that might feel similar to what you have going on in your own home, especially the minimal lighting. Nothing fancy. That way, you can easily apply the practice right now, so you'll be a master of low light when you're out and about in the world. Got my One Piece Luffy action figure on top of a lens and a nice cozy background that I pulled up from YouTube. Now, the biggest culprit to noisy photos is
• 01:00 - 01:30 utilizing a high ISO. If you turn on your camera right now and scroll through your ISO setting, you'll find that you can shoot as high as 102,400. Now, even though that's an option, we should never be shooting at the max. GH, look at all that noise. Gross. In case you don't know or need a quick refresher, ISO is generally used to compensate for the lack of light to achieve proper exposure in our shot. Moving to the left to a lower number darkens our image, whereas moving it to the right brightens it. If we're
• 01:30 - 02:00 shooting in some type of auto mode, chances are our camera will prioritize giving us the proper exposure and usually it will jack up our ISO to oblivion and that's why we would end up with results like this. So instead, if you're using a full-frame camera, you generally don't want to go past ISO 6400. And if you're using an APS-C camera, you don't want to go past 3200. Of course, newer cameras can push past these limits and still get decent results, but these recommended max ISO
• 02:00 - 02:30 settings are a good starting point for beginners to keep in mind. Now, the camera that I'm using right here is the Sony A6700, an APS-C sensor camera. And look at the difference between ISO 3200 and ISO 102,400. While there are still grain and noise present in the ISO 3200 shot, we now at least have a much better looking image that we can try to save in editing. So, now that we have an ISO ceiling, let's work on our other settings. Because remember, low light
• 02:30 - 03:00 photography is all about balancing all of our settings to achieve the best results. Aperture. So, the way for us to shoot at a lower ISO is by introducing more light. And we can do that in three different ways. One, using the widest open aperture above to our lenses. Two, utilizing a slower shutter speed time. Or three, physically adding in more light. We'll talk about using the widest open aperture first because this is typically the first setting I will change when shooting handheld in low
• 03:00 - 03:30 light situations. Now, for the sake of the demo, I'll just leave it on the tripod for now, but we'll take it off the tripod later just to show you how I do it handheld. That didn't intend to be dirty. When it comes to aperture and low light, especially shooting handheld, choose the smallest number possible on your lens. If you're using a starter kit lens that came bundled with your camera, likely the widest you can shoot at is at f3.5. I don't have a kit lens on me, so I'll just set my aperture to 3.5 on the lens that I do have. And just look at how much brighter our image is becoming.
• 03:30 - 04:00 Now we can lower our ISO even more from 3,200 to 800. Now it is recommended to upgrade to a prime lens like an f1.8 as that will significantly help you shoot at the lowest ISO possible. Now watch as I'm opening my aperture from f3.5 to f1.8. Look at how much more I can drop my ISO all the way down to ISO 320. significantly reducing the noise
• 04:00 - 04:30 straight out of camera. Now, the extra benefit of having an f/1.8 prime lens is that we get that sweet, sweet background blur. And you can see how the aperture blades in your lens are opening up to a wider circle. That's how the lens is letting in more light into your sensor, thus reducing the need to raise your ISO to compensate for the lack of light. Shutter speed. Next up, shutter speed. And this would be the second setting I would change when doing low light photography handheld. So, let's go ahead and take it off the tripod.
• 04:30 - 05:00 Now, when shooting handheld and low light situations, you want your shutter speed to at least match the focal length you're shooting with if you're using a full-frame sensor camera, or double the focal length if you're using an APS-C camera. Now, just so I don't neglect my kit lens users, I'm going to set my aperture back to f3.5 just so you can see what your setup is capable of. Remember, we always set our aperture first when it comes to doing lowlight photography handheld. Then, because I'm using a 24 millimeter lens on an APS-C
• 05:00 - 05:30 camera, I'm going to double it and set our shutter speed to 1 over 50. And finally, ISO. We're going to raise it until we have proper exposure and hopefully not go past our recommended max ISO suggestion. Now, just stay calm, stay steady, and take our shot. Zooming in. And okay, we're a little off. And that's okay. Low light photography is tricky and it requires a few trial and error.
• 05:30 - 06:00 That's just how it is. Remember, stay calm, stay steady, and let's take our shot again. All right, let me just get up for this so I have a better position. And three, two, one. Bam. Look at that. Tac sharp and very minimal noise. All right. So, comparing this with our high ISO shot that our camera determined for us in auto mode. Same lighting conditions, but yet we have a much
• 06:00 - 06:30 better looking image. All because we follow three simple rules for handheld photography in low light. One, set our aperture to the widest value. Two, set our shutter speed to match or double the focal length we're shooting in. And three, set our ISO until we achieve proper exposure. Now, if you're starting to go past the recommended max ISO suggestion, we can just set our ISO at the suggested max already and try to use a slower shutter speed just a little bit more and hope for the best. And some
• 06:30 - 07:00 cameras with inbody image stabilization will allow you to shoot at the slower shutter speed handheld while still giving you sharp results. Otherwise, we'll have to tread into tripod territory. They are a pain to bring along with, but they make lowlight photography infinitely easier. So, let's go outside, shall we? Tripod. So, here's the classic cityscape of Shinjuku in Tokyo, Japan. The hustle
• 07:00 - 07:30 and bustle vibe from the commuters and the tourists and neon lights and ads from the buildings. And I got the Sony RX100 Mark 7 here on a tripod and we're going to capture this iconic shot. Now, if we let our camera shoot in auto, we'll likely will end up with a grainy and noisy shot like this. But by going manual and using a tripod, we no longer have to raise our ISO. In fact, shutter speed would be the only setting we'll need to worry about. So, the order of sequence here is going to be different when we're using a tripod in low light.
• 07:30 - 08:00 First, we'll set our ISO to the lowest possible, and that's going to be 100. Next, we'll set our aperture to the lowest value. And again, for my kit lens viewers at home, I'll shoot at f3.5 for you guys so you can see what's possible with your setup. Then we will adjust our shutter speed from fraction numbers to whole numbers until we get a decent exposure. And lastly, we're going to enable our 2C timer on our camera and take our shot. Boom. What a difference, right? Just look at how clean our black sky is and
• 08:00 - 08:30 the lighting from the signages. Just absolutely beautiful. And with a little editing, look at how much enhancing we can do to our low light images. In fact, our aperture value here can be as high as f9, which would give us these nice star twinkles from these light sources. We would simply need to compensate a bit more with our shutter speed by slowing down the shutter even more. And this is going to be the key saying to use when you're photographing, especially very dark environments. So, the next time you
• 08:30 - 09:00 head out to a dark and spooky forest or trying to capture some astro stars, remember to bring your tripod and let shutter speed do all the work. Now, you might have noticed where are the people, where are the cars? So, what we just did is called a long exposure. That means anything that was in motion, i.e. people and cars, as long as they exit out of frame before the shutter releases, they will disappear. They might leave trails behind, but anything that's stationary will remain
• 09:00 - 09:30 in the photo without a single noise or speck on them. But that's also the drawback to long exposure. It works best with low light cityscape and landscapes, but not moving subjects. So, if moving subjects are your main subject of interest in your photograph in low light, i.e. portraitures, stick to the handheld rule that we discussed in the first half of the video. With that said, I do have a couple more helpful tips before you go. So, the harsh truth is anytime we do raise our ISO past 800, we
• 09:30 - 10:00 will inevitably still get those grain and noise. There's just no helping it. But if you follow the instructions in this video, there shouldn't be too much of it. And for those of you who are using Adobe Lightroom, there's a pretty good D noiseis feature that will clean that right up. And hey, if you enjoy this video, consider a super thanks donation or simply stick around and listen to what my sponsor Squarespace has to say. Squarespace is an all-inone platform to create beautiful websites. No coding knowledge needed. Just simply
• 10:00 - 10:30 choose from their many templates and designs. Perfect for photographers and online shop owners. Use my link down below for a 14-day free trial. And when you're ready to launch, you can use my code, Jason Vong, to save 10% off your first purchase of your website or domain. Guys, thank you so much for watching and we will see you guys in the next video. Peace.