INSIDE MY TINY HOUSE - Interior Build part 1

Estimated read time: 1:20

Summary

In this first part of his series on building the interior of his tiny house, Drew sets out to craft a livable space despite the small dimensions. Having completed the exterior in previous videos, he's now focusing on the interior framework and utilities. Drew discusses framing for different sections, including bedrooms and bathrooms, and shares his adventures with various building materials. He delves into the intricate details of plumbing, electrical work, and insulation, all while maintaining his DIY ethos. Despite a setback due to a shoulder injury, Drew progresses through the foundational stages of making this tiny house a cozy and functional home.

Highlights

Starting the interior of the tiny house in Southern Ontario with fresh ideas after a successful exterior build. 🌿
Framing is accomplished with careful measurements and tools, ensuring every section like the bathroom and loft is perfectly aligned. 📏
Utilizing cedar for the loft's floor framing, adding a touch of aesthetic appeal and practicality. 🌲
Learning to install gas lines and electric panels for the first time, Drew fuses enthusiasm with caution. ⚡
Applying spray foam insulation despite challenges, showcasing resourcefulness in a DIY project. 🧊
Drew faces a challenge with a shoulder injury, taking a step back to focus on recovery while still progressing on the build. 🏥

Key Takeaways

DIY Enthusiast: Drew tackles his tiny house build with a strong do-it-yourself spirit, showcasing that self-reliance and creativity can create a unique living space. 🛠️
Attention to Detail: Every small decision in such a small space, like exposed ceiling beams, can greatly affect the overall feeling of the room. 🎨
Learning Through Mistakes: Drew shares his experiences of what worked and what didn't, encouraging viewers to learn from his journey. 📚
Utility Installation: Complex installations like gas lines and electrical panels are handled with meticulous care and a touch of humor. 💡
Overcoming Setbacks: Despite a shoulder injury, Drew persists, emphasizing determination and adaptability in any project. 💪

Overview

Drew, from Drew Builds Stuff, takes viewers on a journey as he begins the interior construction of his tiny house. After completing the exterior work, he's excited to tackle the indoor tasks that call for innovative use of space despite the small area. His process involves meticulous planning, from framing the bathroom and loft to deciding on materials that enhance both functionality and style.

Throughout the video, Drew shares the intricacies of building a self-sufficient home. He installs gas lines and electrical systems with a cautious yet enthusiastic approach, acknowledging his novice status but driven by a desire to learn and succeed. His choice of materials like cedar for aesthetic touch and spray foam for effective insulation are explained in detail, giving viewers insight into DIY construction.

Although Drew encounters a setback with a shoulder injury, he shares how he adapts by slowing down and seeking professional help. His commitment to completion remains steadfast, and he highlights the importance of attention to detail and learning from mistakes. This episode is one of perseverance, creativity, and transformation, setting the stage for the cozy, final touches in upcoming videos.

Chapters

00:00 - 03:00: Introduction and Goals Spring has arrived in Southern Ontario, and it's time to work on the interior of the tiny house. Previously, the exterior was completed.
03:00 - 10:00: Interior Framing and Bathroom Setup The chapter focuses on the excitement surrounding the interior framing and bathroom setup of a tiny house. The narrator shares their enthusiasm about the unexpected interest and views the tiny house has garnered. They express eagerness to present their interior design ideas aimed at maximizing livability in the small space. Music plays in the background as they convey their vision for creating an efficient and cozy environment inside the tiny house.
10:00 - 20:00: Loft Construction and Framing Details The chapter begins with the narrator reflecting on the stability and condition of the loft construction completed previously, noting no leaks or issues despite the passage of winter. This indicates the structural integrity of the build so far. The narrator mentions that the next steps involve focusing on interior work, particularly framing for the bathroom, shower, closets, and the loft itself. More framing inside the loft will be necessary to accommodate these features as part of the ongoing construction and design operations.
20:00 - 25:00: Gas Line Installation This chapter focuses on the process of installing a gas line in a bedroom. The narrator begins by explaining the materials used, primarily regular 2x4 lumber with some 2x3s to save space. The chapter starts with cutting the pieces for one wall to length.
25:00 - 35:00: Electrical Installation In this chapter titled 'Electrical Installation', the discussion revolves around the preparation and assembly involved in the process of nailing the walls. The narrator starts with marking out the stud spacing on the bottom plate. This involves using a square tool to transfer marks onto both plates, ensuring precision and alignment. The same strategy is applied as was used for framing external structures, specifically using 3 and 1/4 inch framing nails with a framing nailer. This method helps streamline the process of constructing sturdy and reliable walls for electrical setups.
35:00 - 40:00: Water Supply Lines The chapter titled "Water Supply Lines" does not directly provide information about water supply lines in the given transcript. Instead, it describes part of a building process. In this segment, the narrator, while preparing to erect the first wall, emphasizes marking wall placement accurately using a tape measure and a chalk line. The narrator also mentions adding additional blocks to secure the wall to the exterior walls effectively, followed by positioning the wall against the marked line and tacking it into place.
40:00 - 60:00: Spray Foam Insulation This chapter discusses the process of installing spray foam insulation within a structure. Before starting, the builder ensures the base structure, such as a trailer, is perfectly level. This is critical as it provides a reference for leveling the walls accurately. Using tools like a level and a screw, the builder secures the wall into position, ensuring it remains perpendicular and aligned with the base structure. This preparation ensures the efficiency and effectiveness of the installation process.
60:00 - 77:00: Ceiling Installation and Walls The chapter discusses the importance of ensuring surfaces are level during the ceiling installation and wall framing process. It emphasizes taking the necessary time to align and level surfaces accurately. The narrator proceeds with framing additional walls using the same careful leveling methods.
77:00 - 86:00: Beam Work and Challenges The chapter 'Beam Work and Challenges' discusses modifications to wall heights to construct a walkable floor frame beside a bed. This adjustment allows for a semi-upright stance in the hallway adjacent to the loft bed, providing more convenience and avoidance of crawling into bed. Additionally, progress is made on framing a bathroom, shower, and a couple of closets.
86:00 - 97:00: Window Trimming and Utility Installations The chapter begins with a focus on preparing for the floor framing in a loft area. The solution involves using cedar 4x4s as the primary material for the framing. The initial step in the process includes using a planer to make a single pass on each of the four sides of the 4x4s. This step is crucial as it provides a fresh surface while helping to square up the edges of the timber, ensuring a clean and even base to begin the framing work.
97:00 - 111:00: Electrical Hookup and Flooring The chapter 'Electrical Hookup and Flooring' begins with the speaker expressing a preference for the look of plain 4x4s over factory-finished ones. They proceed by planing down all ten of their 4x4s efficiently and then start cutting them to the required length. The process includes making a fresh cut at the start of each 4x4 and measuring out the necessary dimensions.
111:00 - 115:00: Conclusion and Future Plans In this chapter, the focus is on the final steps and reflections of the project involving the assembly of a loft floor framing. The narrator details their decision-making process, choosing to use Cedar 4x4s for the framing due to its visibility as an exposed ceiling in the bathroom. They also discuss their consideration of various framing options and ultimately opting for quality materials to achieve the desired aesthetic and structural outcome.

INSIDE MY TINY HOUSE - Interior Build part 1 Transcription

00:00 - 00:30 [Music] [Music] Well Spring is finally sprung in Southern Ontario and it's time to start the inside of my tiny house in the last video I built the entire exterior of
00:30 - 01:00 this tiny house and it got way more interest in views than I was expecting so now I'm really excited to show you guys the ideas I have for the inside and hopefully it's going to make this a really livable space even though it's small [Music]
01:00 - 01:30 I really haven't touched this since I finished up the last video in the middle of November and this thing seems to have lasted the winter pretty well and that's good cuz they happen every year I didn't find any leaks around any of the windows or the Skylight or any roof leaks or anything so we're pretty much clear to start working on the interior here so first things first I'm going to have to do some more framing on the inside just to build up where my bathroom's going to be along with the shower and some closets and the Loft
01:30 - 02:00 bedroom so for most of this I'm just using some regular 2x4 lumber a couple spots I'll use some 2 x3s just to save some [Music] space so after cutting all my pieces for one wal to length I took my top or
02:00 - 02:30 bottom plate and just marked out the stud spacing then I brought up the other plate and just used a square to transfer the mark onto both plates so that I can start nailing in the [Music] studs so to nail these walls together I'm doing the same thing I did with framing the exterior just using some 3 and 1/4 in framing nails in my framing nailer
02:30 - 03:00 [Music] and then before I stand the First wall up I need to Mark out my wall placement so I'm just using a tape measure and then a chalk line to get some straight set [Music] lines I also needed to add a couple blocks so I could screw my wall into the exterior walls and then I just slid my wall up against the set line and and tacked it in
03:00 - 03:30 place then I used a level to level up one end of this wall and screwed it into that [Music] blocking I should also mention the same way I did on the exterior I made sure I got the trailer perfectly level before I started doing any of this that way when I level a wall I know it's nice and Plum to the trailer and then I don't have to
03:30 - 04:00 square anything relative to other surfaces so take the half hour and make sure that's nice and [Music] level so now I'm framing up the rest of the walls I need in the exact same way [Music]
04:00 - 04:30 so a portion of these walls are a little bit shorter so that I could make up this floor frame and then this is going to be a walkable level that goes beside the bed that way I don't have to completely just crawl up the Loft into bed I can stand up in this hallway just a little bit bent over and after an afternoon at work I have my bathroom and shower and a couple closets framed in
04:30 - 05:00 [Music] now I'm going to be making up the floor framing for the Loft and I have some cedar 4x4s I'm doing that with but first of all I just have my planer and I'm just doing one quick pass on each of the four sides of the 4x4 just to give it a fresh face and you kind of square up the edges a little bit
05:00 - 05:30 and I like the look of the plane 4x4 a lot better than the factory finished so I went ahead and pled down all 10 of my 4x4s [Music] quickly and now I'm going to start cutting them to [Music] length I'd just make a fresh end at the start of the 4x4 and then meure out the
05:30 - 06:00 length I [Music] needed and then just completed the cuts with my miter [Music] saw so with all my pieces cut I can just start assembling my loft floor framing I decided to use some nice Ceder 4x4s for this Framing and I took the extra time to play them because this is going to be an exposed ceiling in the bathroom I was considering just framing this this floor out of 2x4s and then
06:00 - 06:30 closing it in with the ceiling in the bathroom but I really like the look of the exposed Timbers and not having the ceiling closed in actually gives a little bit more Headroom and the feeling of openness little things like this don't seem like huge decisions but when you're dealing with such a small space any little added attention to detail you can put in makes the final product feel a lot less claustrophobic at least hopefully so to fasten these Timbers together I'm using these 6in leg screws and basically I just mark the center point of a
06:30 - 07:00 beam and then just quickly pre-drill the hole with a small drill bit and then use my impact to drive these screws sinking them flush into the face of that 4x4 some of these screw heads will be exposed so I took the time to measure out my screw placement so everything's nice and [Music] uniform now this frame's complete so I my brother run over quick to help me
07:00 - 07:30 lift this up into place and once I have that sitting level I use those same lag screws just to screw this into the framing of the walls wherever it wasn't supported by a load bearing wall beneath [Music] it where it was supported by a wall I just used some 3-in deck screws to secure it together so so open this little Loft hallway thing I just used a
07:30 - 08:00 scrap piece of OSB I had line around and cut it to size for a [Music] subfloor and then I'm doing this last bit of framing to close in these walls so these walls close in The Loft and then they also give me a full height shower with a window in it again with the space this small you want to really pick and choose some things to go over the top with to make it feel more Grand and having this 10t tall shower with a window in it is a nicer shower than most toes and it's going to be a big thing
08:00 - 08:30 that I do every day that doesn't feel like I'm cramped into this tiny little space so now I'm going to do the floor for the rest of the Loft so I'm just Measuring Up the Pieces and then I have this half in Maple cabinet grade Plywood And I'm just ripping these pieces to sze with my circular [Music] saw and before I install that there's a couple spots on these walls where when the paneling comes up they don't have a hard Edge to stop them so I'm going to
08:30 - 09:00 install some 4x4 Block in here just to give that paneling an edge to stop [Music] at and there's a few of these places so I just went around and installed all those [Music] blocks and then I sanded up this entire frame with some 120 grit and this would have been a lot easier if I just did this in the individual pieces before I assembled it
09:00 - 09:30 or even if I sanded it before it was 7t up in the air but hey live and [Music] learn so I picked this Maple cabinet plywood for a couple reasons one it's really strong so I could probably get away with half inch and two it has two finish faces so potentially this could just be the finished face of the ceiling of the bathroom as well as the finished face of the floor of the Loft and that would have been great in theory but I didn't quite plan far enough ahead and you'll see so since this top face was potentially
09:30 - 10:00 going to be used I decided to use some construction adhesive and 15 gauge nails to nail this down that way I have as little cleanup work as possible and most of the nail holes will get covered up by [Music] trim if you're going to floor over top of this you could easily just screw this down and skip the construction adhesive which I should have did because spoiler alert that construction adhesive is really tough to get off but anyway for now I have a finish Loft
10:00 - 10:30 floor [Music] [Music]
10:30 - 11:00 [Music] so next on the agenda I'm going to be installing a gas line to feed propane to my stove incinerating toilet and tankless water heater so after I pretty precisely measured the route the pipe is going to take I went out to the hardware store and just got a bunch of this black iron pipe and these 1/ in fittings and to connect these pipes together I'll be using a combination of this pipe dope and some yellow gas tape by the way this is the first time I have ever done this and I'm in no way qualified to tell you how to do this so take this with a grain
11:00 - 11:30 of salt but first I took some of the yellow thread tape and I just made two clockwise laps around the threads then I just took a little bit of pipe dope and just went around the threads as well theoretically you should only need one of these but I'm a beginner so I'm going to kind of double cover my a here and hope that there's no leaks then after threading on the fitting hand Tite I just took two pipe wrenches and tighten that up as much as I could
11:30 - 12:00 [Music] and that's a completed fitting so I basically just had to measure out all the different lengths of pipe I needed and what fittings and then just I assembled as much as I possibly could on the bench and kind of brought the sections into place to connect them [Music] together so I kind of had to get creative with my road here just because I didn't want to drill through the 2x4 framing too much and take away a lot of the structure so I just kind of zigzagged it along underneath where the cabinets are going to be and then up
12:00 - 12:30 along the wall and across the beams into this closet really the goal is just to get one of these half in capped ends everywhere I'm going to need to hook it up to an appliance and then to bring this gas line outside of the house I built up this little section of pipe it will basically go out from the main gas line along the floor and then just elbow out towards the edge of the trailer with this shut off valve and a 38 fitting that'll fit onto the propane tank and regulator
12:30 - 13:00 so I just drilled this out through the floor with a forcer bit and then used a spade bit just to clear that insulation then I can poke that pipe up through the floor and after I prepped the threads I can start threading that onto the rest of the gas [Music] line so really quick how I roted this I came up through the floor and ran over to a tea to feed the stove and this pipe
13:00 - 13:30 just runs along the floor underneath where the cabinets are going to be over to the incinerating toilet up the wall and across the ceiling into the closet where it can eventually feed a tankless water heater now I'm going to pressurize this gas line just to make sure there's no leaks so I just filled this up with some air and I'm going to let it sit for a day by the way you should always have this inspected tiny hes here are kind of a gray area and I can't actually get an inspection but I had a plumber friend come over and make sure this was all good and not going to kill anybody [Music]
13:30 - 14:00 and a day later that pressure is still relatively the same so this is a good gas line now it's time to start the electrical so I have this 60 amp panel that I'm mounting in this wall and like the gas line I'm in no way qualified to tell you how to do any of this so This part's going to be a little more accelerated than the woodworking portions of this video so basically all the wires for the circuits in the home are going to come out the top of the panel and of them are going to run over to the left and then into the main walls
14:00 - 14:30 but I do want to run a couple over here to the right so I'm going to have to take off that law floor and cut myself a Passage through this [Music] beam so lesson learned never use construction adhesive on anything unless you're 100% positive you're not going to have to take it off
14:30 - 15:00 eventually I found just working this up with the Chisel was the best way to get it off and then I had to go around with the Chisel and take off all that extra construction adhesive residue as [Music] well but then I can use my 12-in chainsaw and I'm just going to cut some grooves down this beam and then chisel out a little trench here for some wires and water pipes could I have just spaced these beams a few inches part absolutely but
15:00 - 15:30 planning a build like this has so many steps it's impossible to foresee everything you're inevitably going to bite yourself in the butt a few times but hey learn from my mistakes I don't mind a little bit of running a chainsaw [Music] anyway so to do almost all of the wiring I'm just using some standard household 142 wire and a really quick summary of
15:30 - 16:00 how I had run this wire I'd start at the panel and just start running it through the framing over to my first receptacle box and then I'd run the wire down into the electrical panel and just leave a few feet left on the line and label the wire and I'll tie these all in [Music] later so when drilling through the framing I'd use one of these threaded Spade bits and one thing to mention is when I'm drill through these structural
16:00 - 16:30 2x4s the max whole size I can do to code is 7/8 of an inch once again tiny homes are gray area and this won't get inspected for code but I am trying to keep everything as close to code as possible although there are a few areas that you got to stretch the rules a little bit so once I get to recepticle box I just measure the height I want it at and screw it into a stud with some screws and then I'd bring the wire over to the stud and staple it on and then I'd feed the wire into the receptacle
16:30 - 17:00 box and just leave this little hoop of wire that has roughly a foot between the staple and the recepticle box and then to continue the circuit I'm just starting a fresh wire and going in up through the recepticle box and then running it through the studs over to the next receptacle [Music]
17:00 - 17:30 so one note is I'm using all these airtight recepticle boxes and that's because I'm going to be doing spray foam insulation and my buddy actually told me about this I would have never thought anything of it but don't use the steel boxes for using spray foam because when you come back and it's all expanded you're going to have spray foam all inside your electrical [Music] box and then onto the ceiling lights I would just Mark out the position of the
17:30 - 18:00 lights and run a wire just roughly through the rafters then I'd kind of backtrack from there and when I came to a light I would just make this hoop of wire and then this will just stick out while I insulate it and then when I'm putting on the ceiling I'll just tuck this up behind the ceiling boards and then I can drill out a hole and pull out these wires and install the lights from there while I'm in the pulling wire mood I have some of these mc4 cables and I'm just running these up from one of the closets up along the ceiling here over
18:00 - 18:30 to the sopit and then I'm just drilling a hole through this board out into the sfet and feeding a good length of excess wire into there and then if I ever want to add solar onto this all I have to do is just take off a little section of this saet and fish out this wire and connect it to the solar panels on the roof I have no immediate plans to add solar in this build but I like to Future proof and these wires are in the wall now when it's the easiest time to do it [Music]
18:30 - 19:00 and really quick now how I tied a wire into the circuit panel I just remove the white jacket off the wires and then I take that bare copper wire and just kind of bend it around the edge of the panel and tie it into one of these ground blocks then I'd take the neutral white wire and wrap it around the edge of the panel and screw it into one of the terminals on the neutral bus [Music] bar now for the positive wire it's going to connect into a circuit breaker and
19:00 - 19:30 this circuit breaker just clicks into place on the panel then I did the same thing with the wire wrapping around the edge of the panel and up into the terminal on the circuit breaker itself I had a buddy that knows what they're doing help me with all of this I'm not going into too much specifics because I don't really know how he sized anything or what he did to make all of this make sense so find someone that knows what they're doing is my best advice for that so then the panel itself just runs outside the wall here to one of of these rv50 amp
19:30 - 20:00 plugins I'm not going to explain to you exactly how you hook up one of these because I don't really know though obviously I did all this work myself with no [Music] help one last thing for the electrical and I added this in a little later down the line is I have this bonding clamp and then on my propane line I'm just taking some fine sandpaper and just sanding off the black coating on the outside just in a little area and then screwing on this bonding clamp then I have some number six copper wire
20:00 - 20:30 and I just stripped one of the ends and hooked this end into that bonding clamp then I just ran the wire up through the wall in the top of the electrical panel and screwed this into one of the empty terminals on the grounding blocks and that's the rough in stage of the electrical done so we're getting near the end of the utilities here one last major thing that needs to be added is obviously some water supply lines so for that I have
20:30 - 21:00 two 50ft rolls of this red and blue/ in Pex piping so I just cut off the length of pipe that I need and then to install a fitting I just have one of these PEC specific fittings and I'd slide that into the end of the pipe and then you use one of these stainless steel crimp rings and slide that maybe a/ cmet from the end of the piping and use one of these crimping tools to crimp that ring this is pretty much a leak proof wave to do water supply lines out of all
21:00 - 21:30 the Pex fittings I've ever done I don't think I've ever had a single one leak so just like the propane I'm just running this out through the floor of the tiny home and then I'm just going to start working my way around to all the faucets and the shower if you've never used PEX before it is really really easy you basically just lay out your pipe and cut it to what you need slide in one of these fittings and crimp a ring around it and move on to the next one it's also pretty bendable so for just slight corners and
21:30 - 22:00 stuff you don't even really need a fitting so basically I just took this cold water line and worked it around from that Inlet over to both my kitchen faucet and bathroom faucet up and around the Loft down into the utility closet where it'll continue over to the shower and also split off into the hot water heater then I started the hot water line from the water heater and basically just work backwards to all those same places I did the cold water [Music]
22:00 - 22:30 so for the sink supply lines I'm crimping on these pecs to 38 inch compression valves then these will just accept the supply lines right off whatever sink I [Music] get and then for the sh shower I first need this shower valve and then this has
22:30 - 23:00 threads on the back instead of PEC so I'm going to have to install some of these pecs to female npt [Music] adapters so I first used about five wraps of regular pipe tape and then just screwed on these adapters until they were snug and basically on this valve we have an inlet for the hot water and the cold water and then the mixer that runs up to the shower
23:00 - 23:30 [Music] head so I installed that valve in its place in the shower and ran a piece of peex up to the shower head and then where the shower head's going to be for now I'm just using one of these drop ear PEC to female npt
23:30 - 24:00 fittings and then the shower head assembly will screw into this from there same with the gas line I just gave this a quick pressure test just to make sure nothing's leaking I'm really just checking those threaded fittings around the shower head and I actually did find a small leak and had to redo that quickly so always check and that's just about all the rough in utilities done for this tiny house
24:00 - 24:30 [Music] so before I move any further I get the lucky task of getting to remove all the rest of that plywood sheeting I put up in the Loft and then I have this black
24:30 - 25:00 aluminum LED Channel that's going to get recessed in these beams for some bathroom lights so I 3D printed up this guide for my rotor and this is basically going to attach to my rotor and allow me to rad in a slot right down this beam that I can install this channel into so I have that installed on my palm router along with a 3/4 in straight flute bit and then I'm just taking a scrap piece of the beam and just making sure this is going to rote the slot properly and the aluminum channel fits
25:00 - 25:30 inside and that seems to work so we'll see if this bites me in the or not so first I just measured out my space in from the ends and then I slid the router into place and just routed back to this Mark [Music]
25:30 - 26:00 with that trench roted in I just took a chisel and just squared up the two ends [Music]
26:00 - 26:30 and then did a quick dry fit with the aluminum channel before taking it out and just giving the beam a good final [Music] sand so then that channel can go back into place and I'm screwing it in permanently this took two pieces so I just measured the second piece and I can just cut this with a regular miter saw as long as I go nice and slow
26:30 - 27:00 so now I have this led cob strip that's essentially going to be my light bulb and I just soldered on some extra 18 gauge wire onto the end of [Music] these and then using a long quarin drill bit I'm just drilling up at the start of the channel up through the [Music] beam then I can stick that strip into place and just cut it with scissors once I reach the end of the channel
27:00 - 27:30 so now up on top of the LOF where I drilled through that hole I'm just taking a small straight flute rotter bit and rting a trench through these beams so I can rot the wires through here
27:30 - 28:00 then I put the translucent diffuser strips onto the LED channels and that looks like a finished light that's recessed nicely into those [Music] beams so really quickly how these are powered that 18 gauge wire I ran through the beams comes through the walls down to where the bathroom vanity is going to be and into one of these led drivers this will take the AC power Source from the light switch which I just have hooked into an extension cord right now
28:00 - 28:30 and converts that into 12vt which the lights can use and after plugging that into a temporary power source that's looking pretty dang good that's a nice lighting solution for low head [Music] space so now I'm ready to insulate this tiny house just in time for the return of winter so my plan the whole time was was to just use rawal insulation for
28:30 - 29:00 this but the more I thought about it the more I figured spray foam was probably a better bet I didn't want to just hire a service because that kind of goes against my whole Channel I have going here which is all DIY work so I decided to get a little creative and use some products that aren't necessarily intended to insulate an entire house so I have some of this therm coat by AIX which just installs into one of these regular foam guns with some provided tips and it's pretty cold out so I just use a propane heater to warm my area up to about 10° C before in the [Music]
29:00 - 29:30 [Music] soap so using the provided nozzles this gives a pretty nice uniform spray pattern and after spraying a few sections I kind of caught onto the technique on how to get this fairly uniform it expands quite a bit though not quite enough to fully fill the 3 and 1/2 in of the 2x4 so I'll have to do
29:30 - 30:00 this in a couple coats but other than that this looks pretty good it's a nice airtight seal and seems to be fully solid insulation so I bought a whole bunch more cases of this some for retail price and some I actually got at auction for about 90 bucks a case which is like 1/5 of the regular price which in the end saved me quite a bit of [Music] money so before I go ahead and spray all this insulation I'm just really taking my time and covering up anything that can't get any foam on it like like all these windows and the beams and any of
30:00 - 30:30 the electrical [Music] boxes and I also added a bunch of these smash plates where the wires went through the studs just so I don't accidentally nail into any of these wires later on when I can't see them one major problem with this insulation was just the sheer amount of shaking that each can takes so an easy solution I came up with is I have this clamp and one of these old reciprocating saw blades and I just
30:30 - 31:00 drilled a hole through the blade and bolted it to the [Music] [Music] clamp then I can install the blade into my reciprocating saw and once I have the saw blocked into the workbench I can just clamp down on a can and just use the trigger of the reciprocating saw to stir up these cans nicely this was a pretty scalable plan I would just shake up one bottle and then use it right away and it shake it for about 30 seconds and
31:00 - 31:30 it was good to go no effort needed so now it's time to suit up and spray about 160 cans of insulation [Applause]
31:30 - 32:00 so before I sprayed an area I just go around with this little garden sprayer filled with water and just wet down the area because on the can it said that increases the expansion rate and then I just continued mixing up and spraying
32:00 - 32:30 cans on the can it said it's good for about 20 board feet per can and I found that to be fairly accurate maybe more like 17 or 18 but pretty close like I said I used about 160 of these cans and I bought six cases of 12 at auction and the rest retail and gave this a total cost of about $2,500 Canadian to insulate the whole unit once again this stuff isn't really designed to insulate an entire building but if it had a slightly higher expansion rate I think it a totally viable solution to do that on a larger scale so take my notes
32:30 - 33:00 Z vix and send me the new product I'll test it for you so if you remember from the first video I took all this time to drill out these nice little sof vents assuming that there's going to be Rock W insulation in here which I'm not using anymore so now I need to cover up these vents so the foam doesn't seep outside so I just used some house wrap and stapled into place and just gave it a quick coat with THM coat to seal that up and then I started insulating the
33:00 - 33:30 ceiling like the walls one coat wasn't enough the walls took about 1 and 1/2 coats and this ceiling took about three coats to get it so that it was pretty uniformly out as thick as the 2x6s the more coats you give it the more bulgy and inconsistent it gets but I'm going to trim all this back anyway so it should look pretty good in the end [Music] [Music]
33:30 - 34:00 that sucks so to trim up all this insulation I'm just using a regular hands saw and kind of riding it along the stud and just trimming off anything that protrudes out past this point after toying around with it a little bit
34:00 - 34:30 I found it significantly easier to use this small hand saw because it has less drag on the insulation and requires quite a bit less effort this looks like a lot of work but it's really not that bad the saw kind of just cuts through this insulation without any effort at all but it did take a few hours and it's a pretty messy process [Applause] [Music]
34:30 - 35:00 [Music] so that's the insulation done I didn't price out any Professional Services for this but I was guessing it was going to be around $4,000 Canadian so I did save a little bit of money but if I wasn't
35:00 - 35:30 filming this for YouTube as a DIY project I probably would have got a professional service cuz it likely would have been a little bit more uniform and sealed though this actually turned out pretty good so another nice thing about spray foam is I don't have to add any vapor barrier so this is ready to start installing my ceiling and for that I have some of this 1x6 tongue and groove clear Cedar Lumber and my first step on this is I'm just going to measure from a few points down from the beam the same distance and then I'll connect these
35:30 - 36:00 lines using a laser level and that'll make sure my tongue and groove ceiling boards are going to line up perfectly with the center of the tiny hose and the beam that'll run down the middle it'll also make sure my starting pieces are all perfectly in line with each other because they'll meet up a few pieces later once they get past the beams and before I start installing these I'm just giving the beams a good sand around the edges where I'm doing the ceiling because this is going to be the easiest time to do that [Music]
36:00 - 36:30 so I measured out my first piece and cut it with my miter [Music] saw and then I gave the finished side a quick sand with 120 grit because this is going to be much easier to do this on the workbench and it will be to sand the ceiling once it's above my
36:30 - 37:00 [Music] head so I moov my first piece into position and I'm just using a square to make sure the tongue lines up perfectly with that Mark I made and then I'm using my 15 gauge nailer to drive a nail through the tongue of the piece on an angle into every stud I also added some face Nails right at the bottom of the piece on these first pieces but the rest only get the
37:00 - 37:30 tongue nails so nailing it this way results in no exposed nails and gives a really clean modern and expensive [Music] look so really quickly a closer look at that I'd set the piece in place and then sink a nail through the tongue on an angle and add of that face nail on this starting piece only which will get covered up by trim anyway and then when the next piece slides over the tongue it completely hides the nail of the piece before it
37:30 - 38:00 so that's the basics of how these boards get installed now let's do that for 4 days [Music] straight once I got to a light I'd set the board in place and then just measure out the center point of the light [Applause]
38:00 - 38:30 and then I'd bring this board down and just use a scrap piece of tongue and groove along with this 4in hole saw and use that to cut out a perfect [Music] semicircle then I did the same thing with the next piece to complete the hole for the light I installed these lights quickly as I
38:30 - 39:00 was going and hooked the wire up to a power source just so I could test the electrical and make sure there was no problems these are some 4-in pot lights that just have a insulation safe junction box that gets tucked up in behind the ceiling and you basically just connect all the wires with a wiut black to black white to white and green to Green these 4in lights didn't give me quite enough light in here so I actually upgraded these to 6 in later on which made it quite a bit brighter
39:00 - 39:30 for any more unique Cuts i' just use the jigsaw or the table saw and rip off the sections as needed
39:30 - 40:00 [Music] and now for the Loft I took away those plywood sections I just had temporarily set back in place and I'm going to be doing this in the same Cedar tongue and groove exposing the good face down this will give the bathroom ceiling the nice finish side and the Loft I'll probably get some floor on top of it or maybe I'll sand down the Cedar and finish that we'll see and that's pretty well a completed ceiling this will get some sort of oil or sealer
40:00 - 40:30 or something to darken up the tone but we'll move on for now and come back to that later for now it's on to the [Music] walls so for the walls I'm going to be using this 8 in tongue and groove pine and this comes pre- primed right from the company I got it from so these pieces just slide together like so and you have the choice between the Gap side or the vroo side and I'll be using the gaps this stuff's also
40:30 - 41:00 finger-jointed Pine so there's no knots so you don't have to worry about any knots Bleeding Through the paint and if you've had that happen to you before you know that's a big deal so anyway I went ahead and bought 1,000 ft of this which is more than I need but then I have some around for future projects and that cost me 5,000 bucks so the company recommended I prepaint these before they're installed on the walls so I have my paint here and I'm just going to paint the panels up as much as I can fit in my shop at one time
41:00 - 41:30 the main reason you need to paint these is to get that Gap painted because that's going to be really tough to get full coverage on once it's installed on the wall so I just did one coat of paint on these and then truck them out to the tiny house [Music] [Music]
41:30 - 42:00 so with these panels also being tongue and groove this actually gets installed in the exact same way we just did the ceiling I first use a laser level to make sure the first piece was entirely leveled and also helped me line up the pieces on the other side of the wheel well and then I nailed in through the tongue and gave some face Nails underneath where the trim is going to be like the ceiling once the next piece piece gets installed the nails on the prior piece are pretty much entirely
42:00 - 42:30 covered this will also get another coat of paint later on which will cover up any of the nailing defects [Music] [Music]
42:30 - 43:00 I tried to keep as many of the seams as I could behind where I knew there was going to be Cabinetry so I don't have to worry about those being too perfect and anytime I'd be installing a piece that wasn't fully overlapping an existing piece I'd get that laser level back out just to make sure everything's going to line up properly [Music]
43:00 - 43:30 for some of the angled Cuts I'd just take a measurement for the bottom edge of the piece piece and then I transfer that measurement onto a fresh board and
43:30 - 44:00 use my speed square to set the angle which I know is 332° from framing [Music] this and then I'd cut that out with a circular [Music] saw and just work away at these sections piece by piece [Music]
44:00 - 44:30 [Music] [Music] and now we're starting to look like a house
44:30 - 45:00 [Music] so one last major thing I need to do before we're really just into some trim and stuff is I'm going to cap these LVL beams to make them look more like those Cedar crossmember 6x6 beams that are already in
45:00 - 45:30 there so I have some regular Cedar 2x8s and I'm just cutting a fresh end and then cutting this to the length of my first section of [Music] [Applause] beam and then the width of my 6X sixes are exactly 5 1/2 in so I'm going to take this out to the table saw and rip a fresh Edge [Applause] [Music] and then I'm going to cut this at about
45:30 - 46:00 5 and 5/8 in just to give myself a little breathing room I also gave the board a quick plane on both sides just to freshen up the face and perfectly flatten it [Music] out then I can take it inside to sand it with some 120 [Music]
46:00 - 46:30 grit and then I'm going to take a 3/8 in forcer bit and just counter sync some pre-measured screw [Music] holes then I can can just start a few screws and take this up to the
46:30 - 47:00 beam so I set this in place making sure it was perfectly lined up with the 6x6s and I used a small level to make sure it was sitting pretty nicely and with one section done I can move on to the next [Music] oh yeah one more thing before they went
47:00 - 47:30 up to be installed I also had to use a palm router on the backside and the ends just to Route out these little sections so that these pieces would sit snugly on the lvls and not be lifted off from those metal brackets by the way if you're curious where we are in time right now there's a good chance you remember this day from a few weeks ago we were about 100 km off the totality
47:30 - 48:00 but it was still pretty cool to see so now that I have those face boards up and sitting fairly level I just have some of this regular Cedar tongue and groove that I have around the shop and I'm cutting this to the length of one of the [Music] sections and then I went up and took a bunch of measurements just to make sure this is fairly consistent along the whole [Music]
48:00 - 48:30 run and then I took this board out to my table saw and rip that down to uh average [Music] width and I gave it a quick sand with 120 [Music] grit and gave it a good beat of glue along the backside [Music] face so now I'm taking this up to the beam and I'm just trying to get this as flush with that bottom Edge as possible
48:30 - 49:00 so that there's as little sand in as possible and then nailing this into place with my 15 gauge nailing I generally tried to end these sections right in the middle of the beam since it's kind of covered up there and the least noticeable then I just worked away at these sections trying to get it as close of a fit as possible there's a tiny bit of a gap at the top that I was going to cover with trim but really it's pretty high up there and you don't even really notice so I'll just leave it for [Music]
49:00 - 49:30 now so to plug all those pre-drilled screw holes I'm going to do the same thing I did in the first video on the cedar accent piece I have one of these 38in dowel cutting drill bits and then using some of the cedar cut offs I just drilled out a bunch of 3/8 in dowels [Music] [Music]
49:30 - 50:00 then I can use a brush to set some glue in these [Music] holes and Hammer a dowel into place after an hour or two I came back with my multi-tool and just trim that flush and then I'm using some wood
50:00 - 50:30 filler to just go around and fill in any of the gaps and cracks then that all needed a good sand flush and if you've been following me for a while you'll probably notice that I was hinting that this video was going to come out like almost a month ago and here's the reason why it's so late
50:30 - 51:00 [Music] holy ah God that's not worth it so I've
51:00 - 51:30 had a irritated nerve in my shoulder for years now and most of the time it's not that bad but all this overhead work the last few weeks I was doing on the tiny hose just completely pinched that nerve sanding this beam was the final straw and it took hours and hours and though it was painful at the time it was worse at night cuz I couldn't even sit down comfortably and my arms would just tingle from the moment I sat down until the moment I got up it was obviously time to get some professional help so I actually ended up taking off a few weeks and I had to go to iio a few times a week and chiropractor like three or four times a week just to get this back to a
51:30 - 52:00 somewhat workable level it's still not perfect but it is getting a lot better but my videos might be slightly slowed down in timeline for the next little bit luckily I was getting towards the end of the overhead work and after a couple weeks in physio I could kind of start chipping away at the trim working for a couple hours a day to start [Music] [Applause]
52:00 - 52:30 so for all the ceiling trim I'm using some leftover Boards of that same Cedar tongue and groove and I'm just cutting into the width of strips that I need and since this trim is a finished job my regular miter saw has a little bit of variance in the angles so I bought this new miter saw that doesn't slide at all and has a lot better positions to click into the 0° or 45° positions with almost no play at all [Music]
52:30 - 53:00 [Applause] and after making a few test cuts that seems to cut perfect 45° [Music] angles so first I'm going to be covering up what's left of those steel brackets up in the beams so I cut up all the pieces I needed and then I measured out where this bracket actually
53:00 - 53:30 is and I transferred this onto the backs side of one of the pieces and use my palm rotor just to rot out a pocket here so that bracket can sit underneath [Music] [Applause] this and once that fit I'd use some wood glue on all the [Music] corners and just start capping around the
53:30 - 54:00 beam I just nailed the pieces in on the two sides and then used some painter tape just to hold this all together while the glue bonds [Music] this now next I added some trim around the side
54:00 - 54:30 [Music] beams and cut some inch and a qu pieces to trim out the end walls [Music]
54:30 - 55:00 [Music] then I cut up some of these pieces with an angle that matches the slope of the roof to trim up the rest of the walls I quickly filled in most of these nail holes with some wood filler and just went back a few hours later and sanded that off I also nailed up these corner pieces to go around this outside corner
55:00 - 55:30 of the roof and wall I trimmed in the Skylight box with some MDF and just made a cedar frame for that to blend that into the [Music] ceiling and that's the ceiling trim work fully done so to finish off the ceiling I'm just
55:30 - 56:00 going to use some Danish oil on the cedar this is going to darken up the tone and just give it a little bit of resistance to moisture and some stain protection and it just gives it a more finished look in my opinion so basically I just use a stain applicator brush to apply this to the Cedar and once I had an Arms Reach area lathered up I'd just come back a couple minutes later with some shop towels to take off as much of the excess as I could now my shoulder was actually bugging me pretty good still here so I had my brother come out and apply this
56:00 - 56:30 for me while I ran to some Physio and chiropractor appointments one really nice thing about using oil is you don't have to worry about technique or lap marks you literally just flood it on and take it off and you can work in a small or as big of chunks as you need to I was also really debating whether I wanted an oil or if I just wanted to leave the natural untouched seeder which would have been totally fine it's really a matter of personal preference and I always love the untouched look that isn't until I put on the oil and then every time I'm like oh yeah that looks way better but
56:30 - 57:00 I'll leave that decision up to you let me know in the comments if you like the natural or the oil [Music] look the next day I put the second coat of paint on the walls and I waited to do this until they were installed just to cover up any of the construction marks and dings and scrapes that got in the meantime and this day I had my mom come out and help for the day just to take a little more workload off me again and notice she had to go home and change halfway through this clip when she realized she was on camera cuz God forbid she' be seen in painting clothes while she's painting and that's a good day's work to
57:00 - 57:30 look exactly the same at the end I mean it looks fresher and new but relatively the [Music] same so now one of the last steps I'll be covering in this videoos I'm going to trim out all these windows so to do that I first took a measurement of the inside of the jams and here this is at 46 1/2 in and I'm going to add on a/4 in for each end so I'll be cutting this at 47 in also using my Square to make some marks a/4 in outside cuz that's what I'm going to line the trim up with so then I took a
57:30 - 58:00 fresh piece of some prepainted white window trim and just cut a 45° angle on one end now to measure this out I'm going to use my tape measure on the Inside Edge and instead of using the end of the tape measure that's hard to line up with that edge I'm going to use the 1in mark instead and then at the other end I can just make a tick at 48 in instead of 47 to subtract that 1 in and then using my miter saw I'll just start a little bit outside and just sneak up on this line before completing
58:00 - 58:30 the [Music] [Laughter] [Music] cut so once I have all four pieces cut for one window I could take them inside and then I'd start with the first piece and just line this up with the ticks both horizontally and vert vertically and then I just give this one tack nail right in the middle notice I'm
58:30 - 59:00 not nailing these ends yet and that's so that there's some adjustment room once the next piece butts into it so with the next piece of trim I just apply a bead of glue along the miter and then I just fit this a snugly as I could to the other piece of trim and just give each piece a brad [Music] nail then I just work my way around the window and on to the next [Music] this is actually a really satisfying
59:00 - 59:30 process that turned out to be a lot quicker than I thought it would be I easily did all of these windows in a day and usually stuff takes like three times as long as I'm expecting it to so that's good [Applause] [Music] [Music]
59:30 - 60:00 once the window was trimmed out I just take some wood filler and just fill in these nail holes as well as put a bead along the [Music] seam and then after that dried it up for a couple hours I can just bring my sander back and just sand these seams so that they're level usually one piece was sitting a little bit higher than the other one and the sanding would would just make it feel perfectly flush and hide that [Music]
60:00 - 60:30 Gap then I gave the trim one final coat of primer and a couple more coats of white trim paint I had prepainted these pieces of trim as well and that was really just to get the sides done so that I don't have to tape all this trim off once it's on the walls [Music]
60:30 - 61:00 one last step for the windows is I have this white trim and mold in cocking that I'm going to use to seal the gap between the trim and the window Jam I know we're getting pretty late in this video and a lot of you are getting worried that I wasn't going to pull my out in this video but here it is so I just run a bead along the edge of the trim and then I'd just come back and use my finger to wipe that into a nice smooth bead [Music] and that's the windows done up I'm also
61:00 - 61:30 going to have to paint those window jams because they just came pre- Prime from the factory but you can figure out how I'm going to do that now we're getting pretty close to this being a finished empty room so I'm just going around and installing all my outlets and switches I'm not going to explain how to do this because I'm not really qualified to and there's a million videos that show you how to do this so just give it a quick search I also had a couple friends over to help me do this part and some were definitely more helpful than
61:30 - 62:00 others so the tiny house isn't staying at the shop but I have to hook it up to power to make sure everything works so I had to professional install this big 60 amp RV cable and I can plug in the tiny house for the first [Music] time and luckily all my circuits seem to be working which is awesome [Music]
62:00 - 62:30 so now we're getting into the last step that I'm going to be covering in this video which is doing the flooring and that's really going to bring this room to a point that it's ready to be furnished so before I start the flooring I have to prep the subfloor and around all the edges of the sheets I have these ridges this probably happened when there was no roof on the tiny house and the rain expanded the sheets a little bit so I'm just taking a belt sander with some really coarse 36 grit sandpaper and just sanding down around the edges of all these sheets to get this back to [Music]
62:30 - 63:00 level and now we're ready to install the floor so for flooring we have a couple of options the cheapest of course would be laminate and then vinyl or engineered hardwood would be more of a premium option since it's such a small space I didn't see the point of saving a little bit of money on laminate and I would use vinyl but I'm not exactly sure where my cabinets and everything are going to be yet so I can't really install the
63:00 - 63:30 cabinets on top of vinyl flooring without it expanding and causing lots of problems I'm also more of a wood guy so I'm going to go with some nice engineered o cardwood floor for this so to start I just measured the face width of one of my pieces and then I measured the length of the room just so I could calculate that and make sure if I started with a full piece I wasn't going to end up at the end with like a half inch piece or something like that so for my first piece I'm starting right at the door and I first just BL it out and made some ticks where the door is and then I'm going to cut off about a/ in
63:30 - 64:00 everywhere except for where that door is as an expansion [Music] Gap then I can measure out my next piece to finish this first row again I'm just leaving about a/ inch at the ends and on the side of just this first piece as an expansion [Music] Gap and I can just cut that piece with my miter [Music]
64:00 - 64:30 saw so I'm going to be stapling this floor down and it's also going to be using a glue assist so I have this glue and then I'm just taking that first row out of place and putting a bead of glue down and then setting that back in place and start in the second [Music] row so now that I have two rows installed I'm just measuring this and squaring it off the trailer to make sure I'm running
64:30 - 65:00 straight and then on the first row I'm just using my 15 gauge nailer and then just putting some face Nails underneath where the trim is going to [Applause] [Music] be for all the rest of the rows I'm using this 15 1 12 gauge floor in stapler with some 2in floor Staples so I just set my air compressor to about 90 PSI and then I just used a scrap piece and some 2x4s just to test
65:00 - 65:30 some Staples and get my pressure right after running a few the right pressure seemed to be rated about 75 PSI and that just had the head of the staple just barely sunk into the tong so now I can go ahead and start stapling in my rose of flooring with a staple about every 8 in or so [Music]
65:30 - 66:00 [Applause] [Music] also a good tip to cut the exact length of piece you need is I would just flip piece around so that I'm sitting with them tongue to tongue and then I can just Mark the cut point right at the edge of the prior piece and take this out to my miter saw and cut it and then this piece should fit perfectly in there and the other piece I cut off can start the next
66:00 - 66:30 row so I worked away at this for the next couple days taking lots of breaks for my shoulder but I was really happy with the way this is starting to look it's really starting to feel like home if you've been following my channel for a while you know that I absolutely hate putting out builds that aren't completely finished but this is simply just too big of a job to handle in one video so getting the interior to this point seem like a good stopping point so that you guys don't have to wait months
66:30 - 67:00 more for a video on this and gives me a little more time to heal up and get my shoulder healthy again this video was filmed over 2 months working fulltime and I did have a couple of weeks of downtime in there but it's still a ton of work to make every single one of these videos so I really appreciate you if you made it through this entire thing and watch the full hour and 40 minutes of the exterior build of this tiny house [Music]
67:00 - 67:30 five [Music] [Music]
67:30 - 68:00 [Music] so there's obviously a million different ways you could finish this but I'm really happy with how this is looking so far for my own personal taste I know a lot of people are going to be saying how heavy this is but once again this is not made to travel as long as this is under the weight capacity of the trailer I really don't care how heavy it is that
68:00 - 68:30 being said I really think this is only about 10 to 12,000 lb as it sits right now the total cost of the Interior so far is roughly about $20,000 Canadian and almost half of that like $88,000 was just for the clear Cedar ceiling in the future I'll have a more in-depth cost analysis of the entire build once it's done thanks so much for watching my video and if you haven't already hit the Subscribe button because in the next video I'm going to be building out the bathroom and the loft of this tiny
68:30 - 69:00 [Music] house and after that finishing the entire main area and moving it to the final location if you want to see some hints along the way you can follow me on my Instagram at Drew build stuff and thanks for watching we'll see you next time for